🔗 Share this article

When compiling a ranking of London’s finest restaurants, one might foresee well-known high-end names. But, nestled high among these food heavyweights is a modest salonu located in a distant corner of north London.

A Surprise Accolade

The little Turkish eatery, focusing in the specialties of Mersin, a port city on Turkey’s southern coast, has been declared the fourth best restaurant in the metropolis by a prominent culinary publication. The accolade has made the proprietors totally surprised.

“I am totally shocked,” says the proprietor, referring to his parents’ relentless work that resulted in their small shop securing such a lofty spot on a respected 99-strong list.

A Appeal of Modesty

The small shop, which started as a simple cafe before its conversion into a sought-after spot, has retained much of its earlier charm. It fits just over 20 people and, except for the dazzling live cooking show, the setup remains largely unchanged. “It’s a small and stocky space,” notes the owner.

The Star Offering: Tantuni

Ultimately, it is all about the fare, and this establishment more than delivers. The restaurant’s signature dish, tantuni, is a straightforward pleasure. The meat—lamb or lamb or chicken—is steamed to maintain a moist, juicy quality.

It is then tossed into a large pan with seasonings and oil, which are incorporated in bit by bit. When the meaty mixture bubbles up, handmade lavaş—a pliable bread—is laid on top to soak in all the juices. Thinly sliced onions and a sprinkling of parsley go inside before the savoury meat is rolled neatly inside.

The wrap is often enjoyed with a drizzle of lemon or some tangy accompaniments. The final product is a mighty punch of taste, with subtle hints of sumac, bold onions and red, paprika-infused oil tying it all in harmony.

Beyond the Basic Tantuni

Patrons can also try yoğurtlu tantuni, where the meat-filled lavaş is cut up and topped with yogurt, tomato sauce and cooked, nutty browned butter. The respected food critic called this dish “among London’s few perfect, no-notes dishes”.

When it comes to a sweet finish, the eatery’s künefe proves a delight. It is coated in less syrup than is typical, resulting in it a richer, nuttier and less sickly flavour.

Outranking the Stars

Remarkably, this unassuming restaurant has ranked above several illustrious three-Michelin-starred establishments. It finds itself close to the top of the list, following other notable dining destinations.

While two people could easily leave the restaurant full for below £25, equivalent meals at high-end establishments can start at significantly more than that figure.

A Ethos of Warmth

The restaurant is also among several Turkish restaurants included and is located well beyond the city’s central zones. “It’s not concerning luxury. London is an expensive city. It is assumption that in an high-cost place you’re going to have the best service and best food but I do not subscribe to that,” explains the owner.

“I believe what is crucial is warmth, kindness and a place you can be yourself and be calm.”

The view is supported by the list’s compiler, who stated that if he was in a role of authority, he would “require to have every chef in London train at this spot as a final lesson, to show them the pitfalls of overthinking, and to show what is achievable if you do a few – or three – things to their absolute best”.

A Story of Dedication

Unlike many chefs heading kitchens in the list’s highest ranks, the head chef behind the food didn’t apprentice at Michelin-starred restaurants. “I feel truly proud of our restaurant and our mum,” adds her son.

A lot of restaurants need years to establish themselves, but this one first launched seven years ago. Its acclaim is thanks to relentless, seven-day weeks of effort.

“My mum would be very tired. She would buy ingredients in the morning and prepare the food in the afternoon. Each item is made by hand; she would handle all of this. She is a solo parent and she balanced a social life but her friends would support her to help her. She was raising children and a house to care for as well. Each of these roles shaped her into what she is now: a exceptional person,” he says.

An Recognition for the Community

The restaurant’s success is likely to resonate beyond its own walls. “I believe a lot of people would be pleased, as I am, because the Turkish community is a significant part of London,” says the owner, emphasising the wider significance of this gastronomic achievement.